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Flite Test planes tjled addictive! For me, building is as much fun as flying. That being said, I sometimes go overboard with coverings, paint, and details. I spend way to much time decorating when I should be flying. To try to speed up the building process and still have something tile looks cool, I thought I would try something new Unfortunately there are drawbacks including potential cost or availability to get the printed skin.
As was quickly pointed out in the comments, many depron and profile builders have been using similar techniques for years. Bayboos has used this technique for his Depron Builds. He linked the following RCGroup page regarding printing profile skins:. I have attached links to different decorated Flite Test plans in. Feel free to use the linked plans above as a starting point for your own designs. My son is currently working on artwork for a Storch build. I will probably do other FT designs and post them here If you do a design and are willing to share, send it to me in.
I then import the. This is where the creativity comes in. You can add any colors, art, or. Once your creative juices have run dry and you are satisfied with your plane skin save the file. Remember to keep the original scale or adjust it as desired just be aware that you want it to print exactly the size you need Many office supply stores will print on plain paper at affordable rates.
I know many people have printed the non-tiled plans Carefully remove the existing paper from one side of the foamboard. I like to use water jetss dampen the paper that I am removing as tilwd makes the process a little easier and seems to reduce the curling affect that pulling the paper off causes.
If you choose to use water, apply it carefully with a damp rag or sponge and do not get anywhere near your beautiful printed design or any foamboard paper you do not intend to peel. I try to segregate my pieces into 20″X30″ foam board size areas when I do the design so the resulting print is easy to lay out and effeciently use up every inch of the foam board. Leave yourself some margins, you can cut to the plan design lines later in one step as you cut your plane out of the foamboard this is one of the advantages.
Test fit the cutout sheet s to make sure they will fit on your foamboard again make sure there is no water around from your previous step.
Spray the back of the printed design with 3M 77 adhesive spray or equivelant and let it air dry for about 10 seconds Do not spray the adhesive directly on the foam as the propellant will eat up the foam. If you have curling on your foam, or the design, get a few extra hands to help you in this process. You want your foam board to be laying flat when you apply the new paper.
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If this step intimidates you or you are unsure if the adhesive is adequate or how much to spray on, you can test this process with some scrap foam and paper; after you let it dry a few minutes, you can also try peeling the test result back off the foam to check your adhesion, and to see if there is any damage to the foam. When applying the spray adhesive I make about three passes over the entire paper making sure I get all the edges.
Don’t skimp to much here or your paper wont stick well; at the same time going overboard will add weight. Note that the paper will feel a little heavy with the adhesive but it gets lighter again as it dries. If you are not worried about the weight, just apply the printed paper over the top of the existing foamboard paper do not remove any paper. This will add a little weight but also a little more rigidity and strength.
The choice is yours. Using a soft clean cloth, rub the design firmly onto the foam board making sure that it is well attached. Then place another sheet of foam over the top of your handiwork and set some books on top while the spray adhesive dries out a little. I like to let mine sit for about a half hour before I begin cutting out my design.
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If you are applying a design to both sides of a piece of foam like jest verticle stabapply the first side as described above. Then, cut out your foam board following the plan lines and flip the plane part over and repeat the process but his time, jetd out your 2nd side printed “skin” right on the design lines,apply your adhesive, and carefully line up and attach the second side to the foam board.
Now cut, build, and fly the awesomeness that is your foamboard creation. When applying a graphic you are working from the “front or outside” and you don’t want the blue and red reference lines to show on the graphic. This can tilec done a couple different ways: You need to log-in to rate articles. Coamy for your store account? The advantages you ask? Reduced Weight – less tape and paint means less weight and every gram counts No tiled plans to put together; some people like puzzles The plane plans are printed and applied directly to the foamboad along with your custom artwork so you can start cutting foamboard right away and by-pass cutting out the plans and tracing them onto the foamboard.
He linked the following RCGroup page regarding printing profile skins: STEP 4 – Apply the new paper skin Spray the back of the printed design with 3M 77 adhesive spray or equivelant and let it air dry for about 10 seconds STEP 5 – Rub it out and let it dry Using a soft clean cloth, rub the design firmly onto the foam board making sure that goamy is well attached.
Step 6 – Finish and Fly Now cut, build, and fly the awesomeness that is your foamboard creation. STEP 7 – Rate and Comment and if you try this method, send me pics and feedback to update this article jet.
Recommend This Foamt You need to log-in to rate articles. Wow, I like the green geo plan. It looks like a ParkZone Sukhoi. Log In to reply. That was my first thought, too!
Gsimpson2g on October 18, I love this idea! I will have to try this when I build my Spitfire and Storch. LetsFlyRC on October 18, PropSpinner on October 19, I’ll have to get the people at work to print me up some. I have one question: For example, on the wings the new paper skin is applied to the outside surface of faomy wings, but foamyy red and blue lines are on the inside surface of the wing.
Desert Wings on October 19, I need to edit the article to discuss this. Thank you for your reply. I figured you were doing this.
Updated-Paper Skin for Foam Board | Flite Test
For expediency, simplicity, and speed I like the pin method best. As a suggestion, you could show most of the reference lines because they occur on folds and would therefore be barely ttiled. On the wings, key reference points are a good idea. Bayboos on October 19, From my experience, this idea have one more advantage – it allows working with non-covered foam like Depron with the same techniques as with Readi-Board.
Please take a look at this FT 3D – it’s built from Depron, using the same “cover it yourself” idea: Your plane looks great, with its clean crisp graphic lines. If you are willing to share the artwork for this plane or other FT designsI will post it with the designs above for others to use. I have not worked with depron.
What do you use for adhesive The process is almost identical; even the adhesive is the same 3M I was also trying out 78 – it’s much heavier, but it’s also foam-safe. The only difference is that Depron comes with no paper covering at all, so I need to choose either to cover one side or both and do it myself, of course.
The paint scheme of this plane does not exist in digital form as of today; but it’s based on factory paint scheme of Zlin Z airplane: Bellows on October 19, Beautiful looking planes and a great idea. I am concerned about waterproofing though. Often I fly from hay fields and they are wet.
Even at fly ins sometimes there is moisture present. Wouldn’t these tild colors run? I use packing tape in most cases to cover or poly.
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I know they add weight but in my case it needs to be done. LooseBruce Log In to reply. Depending on the printer and paper used, the colorfastness will differ. The prints that I have used are definitely not colorfast. I live and fly in a dry tilsd so this is not a huge issue but I have tried several different methods of fixing this.